SECTION 3 - OPENING WASHING MACHINE
Sorry about the lack of photos from here on! It's my brother's washing machine, and he doesn't want to open it until some major new parts arrive, because the draining pipe is getting weak from the many, many times the machine has been opened and closed. (These new parts will enable better speed control, including reverse spinning, and automatic water intake and outlet - don't worry, I'll update the guide when he modifies it again, and I'll be sure to get pictures! =D)
Until then, you'll have to put up with my crappy MS Paint skills. =P

How the machine is held together

That picture shows where to find the 6 screws which hold the machine together. They're all on the back.

The washing machine (remember, the Miele one is the one I'm explaining in this guide) is screwed together in 2 parts - front and back.

The BACK part has the bottom and left and right sides attached to it, and the FRONT part has the top attached to it. On the inside side of the front side, there is a cylindrical block attached, surrounding the drum. This block holds the water. Attached to the underneath of it is the drain pipe (2.). It goes through the hole (1.) on the back side, and sticks out behind the washing machine.

How to properly open the machine
Unscrew the 6 screws on the back.
Miele made an annoying design of sliding clips at the top-left and -right of the back piece, meaning that you must pull the front piece forwards, not upwards, away from the back piece. Worse than that though, they made some kind of 'blocking' piece of plastic attached to the side pieces which block the clips on the top and back from simply sliding out of each other. Luckily, the clips on the top and back seem to be strong and can bend without snapping. There is a kind of 'female' clip on the top piece, and a 'male' clip on the back piece. Here's a pic showing what I mean, with the sliding clips in red and the blocking plastic in yellow (the yellow part is attached to the side piece):

A is the female sliding clip attached to the top piece, and B is the male sliding clip attached to the back piece. What we would like to happen is for clip A to simply slide off the 'stick' which is clip B. However! There is a third piece of plastic (yellow here, C), which is blocking A from sliding off B. So this is what you need to do to get the front and back pieces apart from each other, and get this thing open!

Make sure the drain pipe is down (not clipped up vertically), and slowly and gently pull the front piece away from the back piece (by holding the bottom of the front piece), forwards and upwards. Of course, because the clips at the top-back are still attached to each other, only the bottom of the machine will move out, meaning that the top piece will bend a little. Eventually, the top piece will have bent enough to allow clip A on the top to slide out of clip B on the back, by going over the top of the blocking plastic on the sides (C). Here's another picture (much clearer, I think) explaining...

I didn't draw the sides, to make it easier to see the back and top. There is a blocking clip 'C' on each side, but I only drew the clips on one side for simplicity.

As you pull the front piece away from the back, you'll need to pull the drain pipe through the hole in the back piece too. Also, be aware that there are a few wires which run between the front and back pieces, so don't separate the pieces too much! The wires have quite a lot of slack though, so you don't need to worry too much.

There is a little white piece of plastic which is for attaching the hand crank to, which may fall out when you pull the front and back pieces apart. This is fine, don't worry, you haven't broken anything. I'll explain about that on the next page, with another picture.

Once you've got it open, we need to disconnect the stuff from the original circuits... --> Section 4 - Removing original circuits